Katherine and I travelled 5 hours from our beautiful village in Umbria to Northern Italy.
BRESCIA
This Italian town once the capital of Lombardy, and at the foothills of the Alps has treasures that are rarely seen by tourists. Most pass it by for Lake Garda, Verona or on their way to Venice. Brescia has a very proud heritage. It was named a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2011. It was once the seat of the Longobards from 568-774. The Piazza della Loggia is an original Renaissance piazza. The city once housed a music school of famous artists/musicians. It is credited for making the violin and all of the instruments that are "relatives" of the violin. 1585-1895. It was one of the wealthiest cities in Lombardy. We went to the City Museum and viewed many Raphael's and Tintoretto's. The museum is the only museum that houses 3 Roman domuses in one hall. The beautiful Rotunda and Basicila were dominated by famous Brescian artists and Roman Catholic dignitaries, rarely seen in other areas of Italy.
Sadly, the city, once proud is now filled with unemployed "Sudanese"; there is graffiti on every monument, and the police, who should question the groups of the unemployed roaming aimlessly, are harassing the few random tourists who enter the city. Katherine and I were terribly "let down" by "Captain Obvious". There was much unfinished construction in the city. We kept being led down every street that was under construction. Finally, after an hour of frustrating ambling, we called our hotel, the former beauty Hotel Vittoria, and a young man from the hotel, on foot, found us in a small alley way and guided us through the heavy construction to the hotel. The hotel, with its marble lobby, crystal chandeliers, mahogany paneled elevators and its warm greeting by the concierge, had seen better days. Our room had a small terrace, hardwood floors, tall ceilings, and beautiful brocade bedspreads. The bathroom had been updated, and the lighting was more than adequate in which to read. I felt sad for our visit in Brescia, and knew that we would be one of the few tourists to enjoy its treasures.
I love our car, and I have enjoyed it very much on the highways, and winding roads. However, when we are traveling in these ancient Roman towns, the narrow streets, one way driveways, tiny parking spaces and hairpin turns make you wish that you could pull out a Smart Car from your trunk.
VERONA
Katherine and I loved Verona. This small town is the setting for the greatest love story ever written - Shakespeare's "Romeo and Juliet". Verona has a great charm for those who live in the poetry of the past.The Della Scala family, a powerful ruling family was a great patron of Dante. In the Piazza dei Segnori there is a tribute to Dante Alighieri, a beautiful statue. The Arena di Verona, the amphitheatre that was constructed in the first century AD is still used today. It was constructed and is similiar to the Roman colosseum. Opera is prolific in July and August.
Basilica of San Zeno Maggiore is a perfect Romanesque church built during the 9th - 12th century. St Zeno was an African American Saint who was loved by the population, and is buried in the Church. Castelvecchio, the former seat of the Della Scala family has been turned into an art museum. The Veronese school and other masters of Northern Italy are showcased here...Jacopi Bellini's "St. Jerome"; Carpaccio's portrait of "St. Catherina "and "Veneranda" by Vittore. The castle bridge is used as a market place for local merchants. In the evening, Katherine and I would sit in the piazza and sip a Spritz (Campari,Proseco, soda and orange) while we would watch the parade of locals with their dogs, and happily playing with their childen.
VICENZA
This is the hometown of one of the greatest arichitects of the High Renaissance, Andrea di Pietro, known as Palladio (1508-1580). He used a combination of Greece and Rome. Palladio peppered the city with his structures. He was especiall important to the formation of English and American architecture. Robert Adam brought the style to homes in England, and Thomas Jefferson's Monticello, and plantation homes in the South are Palladio styld. It is identified by regularity of form, imposing size, and adherance to lines established by the ancient Greeks and Romans.
Frederico Faggin, inventor of the silicon chip was born here. Many local computer comanies are on the outskirts, and the citizens have one of the highest incomes per capita in Italy.
The Olympic Theatre which is Palladio's masterpiece is still used today. It was completed after his death, and is considered to be one of the world's greatest theatres. It's simple proscenium style, and it's permanent scenery is that of the city of Thebes. It is truly one of the most incredible structures with it's marble statues surrounding the stage. The first production in 1585 was Sophocles's "Oedipus Rex". The Villa Valmarana "Al Nani" on the outskirts of Vicenza is in perfect Palladio style. The frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo line the walls and ceilings in every room, and tell a magnificant mythological tale.
PADUA
A university city founded in 1222. The University of Padua has remained one of the great centers of learning in Italy. Galileo was a professor in the physics department , and Petrarch lectured here. (I think I would have taken physics if Galileo would have been my teacher).
One of the most famous saints in the Catholic religion, is St. Anthony (patron saint of lost items - I have prayed to him many times in my life!).The Basilica di Sant'Antonio was built in the 13th century. Mainly Romanesque and Gothic. The interior houses St Anthony's tomb, and one of the most unusual relics in the treasury : the 7 centureis-old,still uncorrupted tongue of St Anthony. The great art treasures are the Donatello bronzes at the main altar. Donatello restored the lost art of the equestrian statue with his well known example in front of the basilica. Chiesa degli Eremitani was one of the greatest tragedies during WWII. It was bombed in 1944 and it housed one of the most famous frescoes of Andrea Mantegna. Part of one of the frescoes was saved, because it had been removed. The Civic Museum, housed a collection of Venetian artists, and a large wooden crucifix by Giotto.
We stopped for our evening cocktail at the Caffe Pedrocchi. It is hailed as Europe's most elegant coffehouse. It opened in 1833. It's luxurious marble columned banquettes; the bathtub shaped travertine bar has a brass top and brass lion's feet. The banquettes have maroon upholstery, and red-veined marble tables. The chairs are Egyptian Revival. What an elegant resting place to re cap the day with a Spritz!!
No comments:
Post a Comment