The land of St Francis is an area of hills,valleys, and river basins. The ancient Etruscans settled in this area. The hills and valleys are varying shades of green, which resemble carpets of rich shades of fine velvet. The blue sky is a backdrop for the tall thin poplars which dominate the horizon. We are so happy to be here.
PERUGIA
The largest town in Umbria, with a population of 157,000, and also it's capital. It's a university and artists' town. It has retained much of its Gothic and Renaissance charm. The central Piazza IV Novembre is one of the most beautiful squares in Italy. The Grand Fountain was built in 1270 and the famous sculptor, Nicola Pisano and his son Giovanni fashioned the biblical characters. A 17 year old Raphael was an assistant to Perugino and painted the frescos in the Hall of the University.
The National Gallery of Umbrian art is the finest comprehensive collection of Umbrian art from the 13th - 19th century. Of course, there is a Duccio "Virgin and Child " (1304)from the Sienese school.
Perugino's "Adoration of the Magi",from 1475 is in the collection. Perugino was a strict master to Raphael, and accused him of sentimentality. He would be very unhappy today to know that his student is
more popular, and more famous than he is.
There was an antique car collection in the square - the most popular car was a 1966 Mustang convertible - the only American car in the collection.
SPOLETO
This former Roman municipality became the capital of an important Lombard duchy form 6C to 8C.
The city was dear to St Francis, who loved its austere character, tempered by the grace of its narrow winding alleys. Hannibal couldn't conquer, but Maestro Gian Carlo Menotti put Spoleto on the map. The world famous Spoleto Festival in June and July. Spoleto was known also to Lucrezia Borgia who built a grand palace here. The Piazza del Duomo spans the Roman Aqueduct bridge. Goethe praised it when he passed this way in 1786.
The Roman Amphitheater and archaeological Museum are settings for the Spoleto festival. The latter houses two tablets inscribed around 241BC.
The Duomo is a Romanesque and medieval combination. However, Filippino Lippi designed a tomb inside for his father, who painted the frescos in the chapel - his last work. Lippi was a friar who ran off with a nun, Lucrezia Buti, who later posed as the Madonna in several of his paintings. Nothing like a pre-Renaissance scandal.
GUBBIO
Gubbio is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in Italy. I felt like I was back in the Middle Ages.
We arrived on May 15th for the biggest annual festival in Italy - The Corso dei Ceri. It starts with a solemn ceremony with standard bearers wearing gold,red and white;blue ,red and white; or black , red and white.
There are 3 saint wooden statues that are boosted high on a platform, and hundreds of locals, in their appropriate colors, hold the liter. Teams compete in races with giant candles, ringing bells, and vases are hurled into the crowds. At the end there is a religious procession.
We weren't quite certain of the significance of the colors, but we were very impressed with the order of the crowds, and the joy that all of the participants portrayed. Three generations of families participated in this event.Katherine and I thought that everyone who moved to Gubbio had to have a pair of white slacks.There was not one person who didn't have them on.
We took the cable car to the top of Monte Ingino. (We would have never been able to stand in a green metal cage, and go up a mountain without any safety measures in the US - this is what made it so fun!!)
Very fun exciting day.
TODI
The University of Kentucky keeps voting it "the most livable town in the world". It is a beautiful Umbrian town, however, the 1% from the US has bought decaying castles and villas, hoping to convert them into holiday homes. Todi, now has imitated it sister town, Spoleto, and has an Umbria Music Fest - ballet and operatic stars during the first 10 days of September.
The town, and the views are incredibly beautiful. The central square, Piazza del Popolo was built over a Roman forum. The remains of the original Roman and Etruscan walls still remain.
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