The "Appian Way"

April 21,2012 - April 28,2012

After an arduous 8 hour drive from Lindau, Germany, we arrived in Umbria. Our Italian destination. We have rented a 3 bedroom house in a small village in the Umbrian hills. Preci, is the name of the town. It is located in the Valnarina area of the Umbian Hills. The village itself is tucked away in the dense forest of the Valnarina-famous for it's wild orchids,streams of trout, and fields of wild yellow and red poppy - like flowers. Our house is on three floors. The ground floor, has an entry hall, a double bedroom, and a bathroom. The first floor (2nd floor in the US) there is a large well equipped kitchen, with a dining table for 6, a living room, that opens up to a small patio that overlooks the Umbrian Hills. The second floor (3rd floor US) has a full bathroom and two bedrooms. There is a lot of light in the house. Each room has at least one large window. All of this sounds wonderful, along with the 68degree days, and 48 degree nights? But not without issues....the wi fi that came with the house the owners forgot the password. One of them was taken ill, and had to return to the UK for medical treatment for the entire summer. The washing machine flooded, and it took 2 hours to mop up the laundry room. However, we "soldiered" on. We found a mobile phone,butcher shop,barber shop, and computer store in the nearby village of Visso (this was one shop with one man running it!) We purchased Chivetta Cards for each of our computers - 118Euros for 90 days of internet access in Italy. Armed with our thumb drives, and a 26 year old (Katherine) who knew how to do this complicated process, we retuned to Preci (20 minutes over the mountain). Good news/bad news. Good news the Chivetta card was perfect for Katherine's Dell. The bad news was that we had to make another trip the next day to Visso to have the Chivetta card custom cut to fit in the Sim card slot for my IPAD. The gentle man knew exactly what we needed. Katherine's Italian is improving daily (can you say Sim card, and thumb drive in Italian?), and he took out his butcher sheers,paper punch, hair cutting instrument (an all inclusive device) and inserted the card into my IPAD. How nice!! High speed internet at my fingertips.

TORGIANO

On our second day in our villa we took a 60 mile trip through the hills to a small wine producing town, Torgiano. "Captain Obvious" guided us through the small towns and around larger cities. Torgiano is one of the larger wine producing areas in Italy. Umbria and Tuscany are the two largest wine producing regions in Italy. Torgiano, west of Spoleto, is dominated by the Lungarotti family. The family is known for producing the Lambrusco wines of Italy. While in Torgiano we toured the Wine Museum, and the Olive Oil Museum. Olive growing in Umbria has remote origins every since the Roman age in the 15th century. Both of these museums are sponsored by the Lungarotti Fondazione. We ate at a local restaurant - Il Spiro overlooking the local vineyards.

NORCIA

Norcia, 45 minutes from Preci, is a picturesque pedestrian only town that is known for the truffles that are grown and exported all over Europe. We entered through the walled gates, and walked to the town square. In the main piazza is a Basicila devoted to St Benedict who was born in 480AD in this town, along with his twin sister St Scholastica. He formed the Benedictine Monastary, and is currently the namesake of our Pope. The town has a checkerd past , but who doesn't if you've been around for so many years? Norcia is famous for the butchers, and the salami. It was called the "butchers of Rome" because of their knife skills. It is also famous for having buried the body of Pontius Pilate, and has a history of "witchcraft" tales. We enjoyed the truffles at a local eatery (you can't order any dish in Umbria without truffles). There, we signed up for cooking classes at a later date.

BOLOGNA

We braved out of Umbria to a region called the Emilia Romano - 4 hours North West of Preci. This area has the most dense population, and claims to have the most famous chefs of Italy.Parma, Ferrera, Bologna, and Ravenna. We treated ourslelves to the most "famous" restaurant in all of Italy. We left Preci at 9:00AM and arrived for lunch in a small town called Imola where the San Dominica is located. Our lunch was a fabulous feast, which it should have been for the cost. I'm sure this restaurant is not for the "average tourist". For more details on our dining in Italy, refer to Katherine's blog which will be listed below. We then drove on to Bologna - twenty minutes. Bologna is know for it's vast porticos which encompass this University town. One can literally walk 35 miles under these covered walkways. We sat in the large square on the anniversay of the liberation of Italy and watched the animated crowd enjoy the beautiful day. The Italians love their children and their gelato. We enjoy both, as well. We found a lovely hotel with a beautiful garden in the center of the city. Hotel Porta San Mamola. We had a moderate size room, Italian tile floors, and a large wrap around terrace in which to enjoy the garden for 110Euros with a full breakfast in the garden.

 

Ravenna

We drove 21 miles North East to Ravenna. We really adored this small city. The city was named a Unesco Heritage site in 2000. The mosaics in the town's several Basilicas and ancient tombs are incredibly well preserved. The richness of these reliefs are beyond comparison. We visited all of these well preserved monuments that were adorned by the Byzantines during 400-550AD. There is a mosaic preservation society that has kept these tombs and churches in perfect condition. Dante was born and buried here. We stayed in a small hotel in the center of town. You are not going to believe this - but, we stayed in a Best Western!! Yes folks, a Best Western. We had a large suite (yes, with a sitting area), two HD televisions and a wonderful full breakfast for 100Euros a night. We also participitated in a demonstration against austerity.

On the way home from Ravenna, we stopped at a larger "mall" with supermarket and various stores under one roof. It was the best selection of fresh fish I have ever seen.

 

Notes at home:

Katherine and I before we left for our trip decided that she would learn Italian, and I would take a refresher course in French. Katherine has an undergraduate degree in Spanish, and spent a semester studying in Madrid. Fortunately, Katherine has proven that she has followed through on her part of the bargain, however, we will not be in France until October, so we will see if my French lessons will be as fruitful as her Italian lessons. (I did study French in high school for a year)

Cultural differences:

The Europeans, particularly the Italians, don't believe in clothes dryers. They feel that the bright sunshine adds freshness and brightness to the clothes. We, on the other hand, like our towels fluffy and light. As I am sitting here in a "Top Ten Campsite" of Italy - 10 minutes from our house in Preci - we are waiting for our towels to dry after we washed them in a coin operated washer and dryer. The joys of travel, and new adventures.

Note: Katherine's Food Blog is: texangirleatingdrinkingeurope.blogspot.com

 

Black Forest Alps Rally

 

April 16-20 2012

Baden Baden Germany

Mercedes gave their customers an option of 7 five star hotels in the Black Forest/Alps area of Germany and Austria. We chose our first stop to be Baden Baden which was only a 90 minute drive from Sindelfingen where we picked up our car. We checked into the famous Brenners Park Hotel. The hotel is situated in a large private park facing the Lichtentaler River. We had a charming room, luxuriously appointed with a private terrace that overlooked the garden. The forsythia and the violet crepe myrtles were in bloom. The grass was perfectly manicured creating a dark green backdrop for the burst of spring colors. For may decades, Brenners Park and Spa have been synonymous. The spa never disappoints. The indoor pool with its perfect temperature, surrounded by a glass wall of windows overlooking the Spring day was a perfect treat for a before dinner swim. The true charm about Brenners Park is its unchanging dedication to excellence. I always fear when I return to this oasis that its patina may be altered. However, once again, I felt surrounded in Old World Charm, and attention to even the slightest detail. There was a Russian film festival in Baden Baden, and 90% of the clientele were Russian. Apparently in the last 5 years there are many Saudi's that occupy the hotel, staying for 3 months at a time. When the women wish to use the pool, fully clothed the entire spa and pool area is vacated of any male presence for the duration. Ahhh.....the sound of money!! Baden Baden itself is a beautiful pedestrian only, cobblestone town adorned with every boutique luxury shop imaginable. The retired Germans live here, strolling in their beautifully bespoke suits, and fine cashmere coats. I am so happy that this dignified landscape has not been altered.

Salzburg,Austria

After a 4 hour drive on the Autobahn, we arrived in Salzburg. The birthplace of Mozart. We stayed at a beautiful property, the Schloss Monchstein. The hotel is castle shaped and adorns a hilltop high on the Right Bank overlooking the Salzach River and Old Town. The room had been refurbished, and was very well appointed and comfortable. Salzburg has not changed and still has many foreign visitors. Katherine and I chose to see Hellbrunn. It was built in 1613 by the Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg, as a summer day playground. The Prince was a practical joker, and the the water games adorn the grounds. For 400 years trick springs spray unknowing visitors. My favorite attraction was a 200 piece opera of Don Giovanni that was in minature totally operating by water pumps. In the evening we attended a string quartet concert - 3 violins, a cello, and for a Haydn piece, a pianist. It was held in Hohensalzburg Fortress. This is the largest fortress in Europe built in 1077 and wasn't completed until 1681. It was held in St. George's Chapel (1501) adorned with marble reliefs of the apostles, and perfect acoustics. It was necessary to take the funicular to and from the fortress from the center of Salzburg. We also dined at the oldest restaurant in the world - circa 803, St Peter's in old town - if the walls could talk!!

Lindau, Germany

Another 4 hour drive on the Autobahn and we arrivied in Lindau. Our accomodation was the Villino Lindau. Small exquisite hotel with Mediterranean charm. It is constructed like a Mediterranean Villa, with an open courtyard and beautiful gardens in the back. A Michelin star chef overseas the kitchen. Dinner at the Villino was a special treat. Lindau is an island on Lake Constance which borders Switzerland and Austria. The snow capped Alps ring the beautiful lake, and pristine village of Lindau. We saw a Chagall exhibit (which there would have been lines around the Met) that was well presented. Chagall was an early "Modernist". His heritage was Russian Jew, and lived in Belarus. In his later years he moved to Vence in Southern France to escape persecution. He lived until 1985 - Picasso was a big fan - he said of Chagall, "when Matisse dies, Chagall is the only artist living who understands colour". He created a stained glass window for the UN in 1964 called "Peace"to honor Dag Hammarskjold. In this area is where the Zeppelin was constructed. We visited the Zeppelin museum - the only airships ever build. It was truly a phenonomon in air travel. The interesting bit is that William Randolph Hurst sponsored the first round the world Zeppelin in 1928 from Lakehurst, New Jersey, Los Angeles, Tokyo and Lindau Germany. 21 days. The Hindenberg disaster in 1937 ended the airship travel. It was never resumed.

Myths and facts on driving through Europe.

I have driven through Europe since the '80's. Very frequently by myself. The Autobahn spans Germany, Austria and Switzerland; the Grande Corniche spans France; and the Autostrada spans Italy. All of these countries have unlimited speed limits. It's not just a "German Autobahn myth". There are two "rules of the road"in Europe that I adore - 1. There is NO PASSING ON THE RIGHT!!! A beautiful rule. So the very slowest traffic is in the far outside lane; the moderate to fast is in the middle; and the big monster cars with the big 5.5liter engines are in the outside lane.(For years I yearned to be in the outside lane, but my rental vehicles would never allow it!!) But now, I am strong and proud in that lane 150km is my average driving speed - 94 miles an hour, and 160km is my optimum speed(100 miles an hour).2. NO ONE HONKS - when you want to overtake a car in the fast lane, creep up on his trunk, and flash your bright lights , he will pull over to the middle lane, and you are home free! How many accidents have I seen in all of these years - I can't remember one.

The GPS System:

Our car came equippd with this system. I have never used one. My niece Katherine, has a GPS programmed in her brain. We chided the dealership and said that "okay if the car came with it, but we wouldn't need it".We are both map people. In my trunk now I have 30-40 detail maps ordered from Michelin (part of one of our 6 suitcases). We have nicknamed our GPS "Captian Obvious" to denote our total disdain for the system. However, (please forgive me Katherine), we have really enjoyed this gadget. When we have driven into these cities, we can drive right up to the front door of our hotel. Welcome to the 21st or is it 20th century.

 

 

 

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Mercedes Day!!

April 16,2012

The big day has finally arrived. Katherine and I pick up our new car from Mercedes. Unlike arriving at a dealership in the US - this is an incredibly orchestrated production. Cecil B DeMille could have overseen this production. In Dallas, I received a black leather portfolio with the details of my anticipated arrival. Taxi vouchers, meal vouchers at Mercedes (breakfast or lunch), my "Black Forest Alps Rally Itinerary", and my car receipt. When we arrived at Sindelfingen, where Mercedes is manufactured outside of Stuttgart, a gentlemen greeted our taxi dressed in a suit and tie (we're always impressed with well - dressed men). He had two trolleys to discreetly steel away our 6 suit cases, two coats, and water carriers (embarrassing, isn't it?). We were then escorted through the steel and glass lobby and were seated behind a mahogany desk on two le coubousier chairs. "Brune Hilda" discreetly inquired my name - and then instantaneously produced our papers for the car. She spent 20 minutes outlining in an efficient manner every necessary paper that was in our 2 inch thick folder.

Katherine and I planned to take the factory tour. The 90 minute tour began with Bjorn - a fresh faced, enthusiastic Mercedes "company man". The factory grounds were so vast, that we went from location to location in a bus. There were 2 other couples, and a single gentlemen with us. All of us Americans.

Here's a few Mercedes facts for the analysts who are reading this: 1. Mercedes produced 1.35 million vehicles in 2011 (record year). 2. Production included the Smart Car 3. They produced a bullet proof , 10 passenger limo ; 52 were made in 2011. The production on this vehicle is 60 days, on a regular Mercedes 4 days;Maybach 30 days; and the AMG's took 10 days. 4. The bullet proof cars ' largest customers were Russia,Brazil and Mexico (would these countries be a safe place to invest in real estate? in a JV?) The largest regular Mercedes customer is China.

The factory itself employs 45,000 ; worldwide 350,000; the first half of the production employs 98% robots, the second half of the production employs 10% robots. One amazing detail that I found interesting - having always been a "car nut" - is that most of the parts of the Mercedes are actually glued together. Very little of the chassis is soldered.

After the factory tour, we were allowed to "view" our car. Imagine the anticipation build up!!! We were ushered to the viewing platform that overlooked the viewing floor - and there was our brand new black Mercedes with the white leather Designo (hand sewn) interior. WOW! Each owner was assigned their own technical liaison, who spent an hour going over every technical detail of the car. We were fortunate to have met a fellow Texan earlier in the day, Larry who helped us with our car.

We squeezed our six pieces of luggage, 2 coats, and water carriers in the car.

Just a note - I have never owned a Mercedes or a car with an automatic transmission and I am very pleased with the performance of the car. The reason why I choose a Mercedes, and not a different German brand, is that it is the only car one can keep in Europe for 12 months before exporting. Other cars, Italian and German only allow a maximum of 6 months.

 

 

First Day in Act III

It's been an arduous task to get to Stuttgart. When packing for 8 1/2 months for four seasons, it is difficult to "pack light". Katherine and I arrived on April 14th (am) to Frankfurt. We took the train to Stuttgart, and fortunately the hotel, the Graf Zeppelin, was across the street from the train station. Tired, (after a 14 hour journey from Dallas), we hobbled across the street with two borrowed trolleys from the train station. The bellman (a welcome sight) , comendeerd our luggage. Our room was lovely, although not a luxury offering.The weather was overcast and 55 degrees. The main promenade was two blocks from our hotel.The park was beautiful, and we stopped for a cappuccino and watched the Germans on their Sunday stoll. Stuttgart is a manufacturing town - Porsche and Mercedes , so the population reflected this industry.The only two "cultural offerings " in Stuttgart, was the Porsche and the Mercedes museum. We chose the Porsche museum. The first Porsche was designed in 1922, and the current model designed by Frederick Porsche was "mass produced" in 1947 - 52 models of the "Carrera" - actually a Spanish word meaning "firery speed". The museum was pure Porsche and German - orderly, crisp, and of elegant design.

Tomorrow is a big day !! We tour the Mercedes factory, pick up our car, and head to Baden Baden!