ABBEYS AND CASTLES IN NORMANDY

We left our house in Normandy, and decided to find smaller villages that have not been "discovered" in Normandy. There are so many options, and each place is steeped in history, that it was difficult to choose.We decided to have a focus - Abbeys and Castles - so we had our plan.

MORTAIN

 

The origins go back to William the Conqueror, and King of England. Before his famouse Battle of Hastings 1066, his half brother , Robert , was Count of Mortain. The village had at that time been subject to violent revolts and Robert restored it to order. Mortain was the site of an important battle in August 1944. The American 30th Infantry division fought valiantly against the German Panzer unit and preserved the breakout established in Operation Cobra. J.D.Salinger (American Author) fought in this famous battle.

The White Abbey. This was a magnificent treat. The Abbey is partially active, but many of the buildings attached to it are former remnants of their stately lives. We were all alone in the abbey exploring its lush grounds, only imagining what life must have been when it was in its original glory. The Abbey was built in 1180-1205 - the date it was consecrated. Henry II and his brother the Count of Mortain bestowed money in his will in 1182 to have the Abbey built. White Abbey is the most ancient and best preserved cistercian convent in France. The cloisters are the most beautiful part, with their low white spires. The church has magnificent columns of the transept which support the double arches of the ribbed vault. Two bay windows is typically Norman while the gothic style also is present iin the ribbed vault. The sisters left the abby in 1790. The Abbey furniture was sold; the cloister and church were abandoned; and the remaining buildings were used for an old people's home, a handkerchief factory, and some even for Spanish prisoners. The Abbey was sold on two other occasions and until 1970 it was used as a Seminary.

DOMFRONT

The Chateau de Domfront. In 1049 the castle was besieged by William the Conqueror. The Castle had many famous occupants. Henry II, Thomas Becket, Eleanor of Aquitaine, Richard the Lion-Heart, and others on their pilgrimage to Mont St Michel. Eleanor of Aquitaine had her daughter Alienor christened in the chapel of the castle. It was listed as a protected historical monument in 1875.

A friend in the park enjoying the sunshine of the day

 

Domfront is listed as one of the 100 most beautiful villages in France.

 

LONLAY L'ABBAYE

 

L'abbaye Notre-Dame-de-Lonlay

The Abbey was founded in 1020 by William 1st of Belleme and generously endowed. The first monks came here from the Benedictine Abbey of Fleuryand had to pray fro Guillaume's soul salavation. A lot of the history of the abbey was lost during the Hundred Years War; in the great fire of 1533, and another fire in 1574 by the Huguenots.

The architecture consists of two types of Romanesque and a Gothic choir. The ediface only contains a small gothic porch, a Romanesque transept and a large gothic chancel remain. Excavations have uncovered the exisgtence of 3 churches that were successively built under the present choir. A small Romanesque church, then two larger Romanesque chancels in the 12th century. The present tower was probably rebuild on the site of the lantern towner after the fire of 1533.

 

FLERS

Flers in the 10th century the de Flers family headed the barony. In the 11th century two brothers Foulques and Guillaume married two sisters who were "Ladies of Flers". Foulques as a wedding gift was given the seat of the barony of Flers. The Castle, dating from the 12th century was in a fortified location made of wood and stone surrounded by water. There was no damage during the Hundred Years War; it was not a strategic location.

 

The Castle stands in the middle of a park of 32 acres. The old part of the castle is surrounded by two towers and bordered by moats. The castle's front dates back to the 18th century. The castle became the town hall in 1902 and includes a museum. In 1820 the Schnetz family purchased the castle, which was sold to the town of Flers in 1901. The current exibition was Charles Leandre's (1862 - 1934)political illustrations and caricatures. He published in Le Rive and Le Figaro in comic journals.

 

The Church of St Germain in Flers

 

Fishing with grandfather

Juggling in the park in Flers

An apt crowd watching

 

VISITING THE WESTERN SHORES OF NORMANDY

GRANVILLE

Granville is located in the Northwest section of Normandy, and is called the busiest sea lanes in the world. There are not any passenger ships that depart from here. The French and British security operate permanently in this very dangerous and narrow area of the channel. Many rocks not visible above sea level are in the channel. The tide rises and falls 48 feet in this area. In the 12th century the town was fortified by the English until 1437. Notre Dame du Cap Lihou 1441 - 1796 was built during the 100 years war in one of the last Romanesque styles. This town was also the childhood home of Christian Dior. There is a museum here honoring his life.

Low tide

Buying local catch

Really low tide

 

CHERBOURG - OCTEVILLE

Cherbourg is further north on the Western coast of Normandy. These two towns were joined in 2000; their combined population is 42,318. It is now the second largest city in Basse-Normandie after Caen.

An interesting fact about Cherbourg, it was involved in the US Civil War. In 1864 The CSS Alabama was being repaired in Cherbourg ship yards. The USS Kearsarge had been following the Alabama. It waited until the repairs had been completed, and then attacked the Alabama as it was leaving the harbour. It was hit, and sank in Cherboug harbour. In 1984 the French discovered the wreck of the Alabama under 200 feet of water. In June 30,1944 the Allies captured the City from the Germans.

La City De La Mer - The City on the Sea

We visited a new exhibit that was located on the harbour of Cherbourg. The Titanic, on its maiden voyage, weeks before it sunk picked up 281 passengers in Cherbourg (April 10,1912).

 

We toured the Redoutable, the largest nuclear submarine open to the public in the world.

The Abysssal Aquarium, the deepest in Europe. We were in a "virtual submarine" that simulated diving beneath the sea. There was an entire building of virtual exploration through the Titanic. We walked alongside Titanic's hull, through the corridors, and listened to the passengers. It was an excellent exhibit.

 

AVRANCHES

The fortress from 950

Views from on top of the fortress

City of the Manuscripts of Mont-Saint-Michel. The town is on a rock at the confluence of the rivers See and Selune, it overlookds the bay of Mont Saint Michel. For more than a thousand years, bishops were the most important figures of the town. In 708, on Mont Tombe, Saint Aubert, founded a sanctuary which was to become the most famous place of pilgrimage of the West - Mont Saint Michel. (Read my blog, Visiting Towns in Normandy- October 14th). The passage of General Patton's troops and the breakthrough of Avranches, prelude to the Liberation of France, made the town famous.

The gardens by the Fortress

Church of Notre-Dame-Des-Champs. A large neo-gothic building of imposing stature dominated the town. Sculptors with a wild imaination embellished the church with fantastic gargoyles.

The Church of Saint-Gervais. Neo-classical style, and its remarkable granite bell tower of neo-renaissance style. Within a gold and silver reliquary, a human skull is preserved, which tradition attributes to Saint Aubert. He was the founder of the first oratory dedicated to Saint-Michael on Mont Tombe. The skull has a hole in it. Legend has it that when St Michel the archangel appeared to St Aubert, he ignored his request to build the Abbey on top of the rock. St Michel appeared 3 times and on the third time he poked his finger through the scull of St Aubert.

The skull of St Aubert

The Scriptorial Museum. This is the the museum that houses the manuscript, ancient texts, shimmering illuminations which were made at Mont St Michel. It is incredible to see 115 manuscripts from 708 that are perfectly preserved, and rotated 20 at a time for the public to view.

This is an example of an illumination with an "F". I can't imagine how long it took to paint the detail in the letter.

 

 

 

There was a local market in the town where we were staying on Tuesday. Wonderful array of everything available - from fruits, to fancy hats.

My friend haggling with a vendor for a Euro!!

Buying fresh fish

 

My next door neighbors in Normandy