Monday, December 31, 2012

GOODBYE-AU REVOIR-DOVIJDANE-DO WIDZENIA-CIAO

Dear friends and followers of my blog,

This is my final post. I am now cruising across the Atlantic Ocean to arrive in Dallas in time for Christmas. We dropped the car off in Nice, 3 hours from our last home in Europe, Pezenas, France. We flew from Nice to Lisbon, spent an evening in Lisbon, and departed the next day on the Seabourn Spirit for a twelve day Transatlantic crossing. The ship is small by cruise ship standards, however, it is very luxurious and it is a ship that I have travelled on before. There are only 155 passengers on board - a full ship would be 200. The staff is wonderful, and the amenities are perfect. It is almost like a family environment.Each of the personnel knows your name.

Our ship is the small cruise ship on the right.

We made one stop on the ship. We spent a day in Funchal, Madeira. It was a perfect stop. We hired a taxi to take us to the various sites on the island. Madeira has been called the island of eternal spring, the island where summer goes to spend winter. It is the largest of a group of five islands. It is in the Atlantic, 350 miles from North Africa, and 600 miles from Portugal. Funchal is the capital. It is a beautiful city of parks and fresh flowers - purple bougainvillea line the walls of the town; mimosa fills the air with its scent; and jacaranda petals carpet the streets in blue.

 

We went to the famous Reid's Hotel for tea. The hotel has hosted such luminaries as Winston Churchill and George Bernard Shaw. The terrace is on a promontory that overlooks the Bay of Funchal.

Old Blandy Wine Lodge in the heart of the downtown area. This was formerly a 17th century monastery. Large oak, mahogany and satinwood casks and vats contain gallons of Madeira's finest wines. Winston Churchill's letters, and accounting books from the last three centuries are in the museum.

 

We ate the local fish - Espada - it looks like a long black eel. It was excellent.

The botanical gardens were beautiful with the exotic bird collection.

The Mercado dos Lavradores, has the most beautiful array of colorful flowers.

Trying on a hat in the market
People in Portugal

 

 

 

 

 

THOUGHTS ON RETURNING HOME

It was truly a "life changing" experience to be able to live in different countries in Europe. The countries in which I lived, I have visited on other occasions. However, to actually live there, communicate, and conduct daily life with the 'locals" was an incredible experience. Each culture had its own unique contribution to observe.

The Italians demonstrated such a strong sense of family. It could be confused with a laid back attitude toward life; however, each day when they closed their businesses for 2 hours to go home and have lunch with their wives and children, you must ask yourself - what is really important in life?

The Polish people we can learn so much with respect to forgiveness. Their country was torn apart, divided, renamed, reclaimed, and every horrific atrocity during WWII was staged in concentration camps built all over their country. And yet, they are happy, extremely hard working and do not harbor a feeling of malice or hatred toward their European neighbors.

The Bulgarians have so much kindness and love. Their country is treated as the "stepchild" of the Balkans. They are very hard working. They tend their land, fish the sea and produce a premium quality wine that is exported all over the world. They are generous with their time, and do not expect a reward for hard work.

The French, are probably the most misunderstood culture in the "American " world. They are kind, patient, hard working, and really extended a warm feeling of community in their country. They are happy when you attempt to speak their language. Their food and wine is an extreme source of pride for them. They sincerely felt disappointment if you were displeased with them. And, they are respectful of cultural differences. They love their family,and children are an important part of their lives.

An overall observation with respect to the Europeans that I feel we are losing in America, is the closeness of family and friends which is very important in their society. The material focus in life is not apparent. Families and friends join for meals, and laugh and talk with three generations present at the table. They are happy to be together. I did not see cell phones, texting, IPads and Blackberries on the table at family and friend gatherings. I attended carnivals, festivals, markets,concerts, in every different country. These were gatherings of community with happiness and love apparent. I don't see this interaction in our country. I find it refreshing and yet sad that we have let technology replace one on one camaraderie. It seems that we have lost the ability of intimate communication with the people we love. My grandmother if she were alive would be saddened by this.

 

Well, no more editorializing....I'm back home......the Two Girls From Texas in a Car hope to have another adventure soon. Until then, have a fabulous 2013 !!!

PS The "two girls" put 21,488 miles on their car!!

 

Love

Lynn

 

 

 

 

Saturday, December 29, 2012

FRANCE - THE HOME OF THE MICHELIN STARS - AND WE SAMPLED MANY!!

I can't begin to recount all of the beautiful meals, tasteful dining venues, fabulous wine, gracious service and true pride in culinary expertise.

 

Different types of butter

I will write on the examples of eating that were truly delectable experiences. Many of our friends who visited were forced to share in this adventure with us. There wasn't much objection. We made a point to search the Michelin star restaurants in France that were close to the areas where we were seeking sites. I must comment that these meals were very reasonably priced for their high level of culinary ratings. With few exceptions, most of our meals were at the lunch hour. All of the sites,shopping, and churches would close between noon and two during the day, so naturally this suited our dining schedule. We were surprised at how reasonable the mid-day meal was priced. Normally the meals were listed as 3 courses, but actually there were 5. The chef always served an amuse-bouche. This practice was developed in the 1980's during the Nouvelle Cuisine movement. Literally translated "mouth amuser". It is meant to be a single bite-sized hors d'oeuvre that expresses big ideas of the chef into small bites. Simply - divine!! Secondly, there was the "ordered" hors d'oeuvre, then the "main" course, followed by the desert selection. Of course, with the cafe, or the check (l'addition), there is served hand made candy,truffles or pasteries. Many times between the desert and the main, a selection from the cheese cart would be offered. As I mentioned, most of these meals were very reasonably priced - €19-€30. It was very easy to order a superb bottle of French wine for the same price range as well. Most of our wines were priced in the €16-€25 range.

 

NORMANDY MICHELIN STARS

GILL -Michelin 2 stars - Rouen - Chef Gilles Tournadre. Modern French. Ravioli stuffed with foie gras and served in a bouillon sprinkled with fresh truffles. Pan-fried foie gras of duckling served with caramelized turnips and a turnip-green salad. Rouen-style pigeon was a hit.

Foie gras of duckling
Cod with crawfish sauteed on top

LA FERME ST-SIMEON - Michelin 1 star- Honfleur - Chef Jean-Marie Boelen. Located on a glass enclosed terrrace overlooking the sea over the Port of Honfleur. Exquisite setting. Traditional French. Crayfish with sauteed vermicelli and truffles, lobster omelet, and braised scalloops with a puree of Brussels sprouts.

Lobster omelet
The local Calvados (apple liquour with Blanchette - the first champagne.

LE MANOIR DU LYS - Michelin 2 stars - Bagnoles de'l'orne - Chef Frank Quinton. Located in a "spa town" in the country. The local Andouille de Vire is featured. Scallops, rabbit and foie gras always on the menu.

Crab with butternut squash
Chocolate desert, with chocolate mousse, white and dark

LE MASCARET - Michelin 1 star - Blanville sur Mer - Chef Phillippe Hardy. Located near the sea - the English Channel near Glanville, the chef serves precise creative dishes. Most of them use the local fish, mussels, from the sea.

The wonderful Normandy cheese
The "extra" pasteries served with coffee
Cervichi of cod with black caviar
Lamb with pureed turnips

 

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON MICHELIN STARS

RESTAURANT M de LAUZAN - Michelin 1 star - Gignac - Chef Matthieu de Lauzan. Speciality was duck served two ways. Beetroot and puree of carrot with cumin.

Cod with lemon truffle sauce
The foie gras was divine

 

ALEXANDRE -- Michelin 2 stars - Garons - Chef Michel Kayser. Zucchini flower filled with a truffle mousseline; lobster,squid and prawn tartlet; banana cooked in a citrus and vanilla syrup, meringue and coconut milk ice cream.

olive oil....

 

LA TABLE ST-CRESCENT- Michelin 1 star - Narbonne - Chef Lionel Giraud. Sea bass marinated with olives, tuna tartare with roasted almonds, and crepe served with a truffle sauce.

 

LA RESERVE RIMBAUD - Michelin 2 stars - Montpellier - Chef Charles Fontes. Duck confits, with vegetables; oinion crepe; Daurado from the Mediterran with ham; beef with lard de Colonnata. Fabulous chocolate desert.

Can you say chocolate!!!

LA GALINETTE - Michelin 1 star - Perpignan - Chef Christophe Comes. Buys fish from the local fisherman. He has his own 3 acre vegetable garden. He serves Daurado fish with fresh mushrooms from his garden. The ravioli is stuffed with his own home grown mushrooms - "de cepe".

 

L'AUBERGE DU VIEUX PUITS - Michelin 3 stars - Fontjoncouse - Chef Gilles Goujon. Incredible theatrical experience. We chose this restaurant to eat our "Thanksgiving meal". It was fabulous. The wine cellar was extensive, the cheese board was the best. The local oysters and mussels were used. We were given an oyster on the half shell with a small round salt transparent shell. We were given a silver hammer to break the shell, so that the smell from the sea would escape into the air. The entire meal was fabulous. Very much worth the 3 stars. We chose the wine flight with the meal, and they were superb. Great experience in a small village tucked up in the mountains in the Aude section of France.

That's a selection of cheese
Great wine cellar
This is an oyster in the shell, with a salt egg that was broken with a silver hammer to give a "sea scent"
Frog's legs

And of course, I had to have an "American Classic" the hamburger...at "Memphis".....