Wednesday, January 11, 2017

TALES FROM PERSIA - ESFAHAN & YAZD

           
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Esfahan is simply splendid!! Esfahanis are also perhaps the most craft-minded people in the country. There are abundant workshops, exquisite Persian carpet stores, and small art galleries. It is the history and the lack of destruction that makes this city the "gem" of Iran. It is the most culturaly different city in Iran. Zoroastrians,Jews, Christians and Muslims alike have representations here. 

Bisected by the Zayandeh River, the name comes from sipahi:soldier- Esfahan (population 1.5 million - third after Tehran and Mashad). 


Armenian Quarter 

All Saviours' (Vank Cathedral). In 1603 the Safavid shah ordered the resettlement of some 10,000 Armenian families from the Caucasus into this quarter and nearby villages, probably to ensure their skills in silk trading remained in Safavid hands, and to thwart any Armenian schemes of siding with the Ottomans to get autonomy.
Paintings covering the interior date from 1660-1670, the gift of an Armenian merchant. 


The ALLAHVERDI KHAN BRIDGE,
built in 1603, so named after its patron, a famous king - maker, provincial governor and Georgian commander  in the Safavid army;
the bridge is also know as the Se-O-SE POL (which stands for number 33 in Persian, referring to its 33 arches) from its multiple arches. 

Esfahan or Isfahan has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site and is one of the most important cities in Iran's history for its connections with the trade routes. 


MAYDAN-E IMAN 

This enormous public square now know as the Maydan-e-Imam laid out by the Safavid Shah Abbas I. Said to be three times the size of St. Mark's Square in Venice, this immense open space now has lawns and fountains but was once the royal parade ground, where the shahs watched military equestrian events. 


MASJED - E - IMAM

Built in 1612 and finished in 1638. Growing impatient at the length of building time, Abbas I demanded that the labour intensive technique of mosaic tilework used for the main entrance by abandoned for the time saving underglazed painted tile squares seen elsewhere in the mosque .

the best tilework, with a purity of glaze, colour and motif design, is present on the majestically tall entrance portal flanked by soaring minarets facing onto the maydan. 
beautiful family outing in the square....

ALI QAPU PALACE

Constructed around 1600. This is part of the royal compound from where the shah and his court viewed parades and celebrations in the mydan.

The staircase with steep steps rising to the four floors aded around 1644.
The music room has intricate plaster ceilings devised to assist acoustics for court musicians. 
the view from the top...


MASJED - E- SHEIKH LOTFALLAH
our guide, poet and historian, Reza in Isfahan

Named after a famous preacher. This was the mosque for the women of the royal harem; the portal dedication emphasizes the explicit Shi'a role of the shah as "reviver of the virtues of his pure ancestors, and propagator of the doctrine of the pure Imams". 

The massively thick walls support the single-shell dome while giant turquoise barley-twist cables outlining the full-length squinches lead the eye into the dome.
No wonder geometry,algebra and mathematics developed in the Islamic world. 


MASJED - E- JAME


UNESCO - listed "Friday Mosque".
The first two magnificent true domes covering the south chamber constructed on the order of the Seljuk vizier and scholar Nizam al Molk 1092.
Huge brick pillars support this glorious dome, the four massive trilobed squinches . The 10th century Mosque with an ancient underground prayer hall which is believed to be an ancient Mitha temple. 

HASHT BEHESHT PALACE 

Built 1669 .
The pavilion has 17th century tiled panels decorating the external arches, a main domed ceiling set with mirror work, and remnants of wall paintings, the best-preserved surfaces being in the small rooms.
taking photos of the palace
 

CHEHEL SOTUN. 

Reflections of 20 columns in the algae-rich pond in front of the main talar.
This was where the  Safavid rulers received foreign envoys and where Shah Soleyman was invested in 1668. The mirror work, was originally imported from Venice at great expense. 


TOWER OF SILENCE
hoping not to get thrown in the tower of silence...

A circular, raised structure which was used to expose the dead, much like the traditional Tibetan "sky burial". 

ZOROASTRIAN FIRE TEMPLE.

Still in use today, it holds a fire that has been kept alight continuously since 470AD. 

YAZD

The town has long been associated with Zoroastrianism, and the production of textiles. It fell to the Arab invaders in 642, but the Zoroastrian community was strong here until the late 17th century. Today Zoroastrians form less than 10% of the town's population. 


14th Century Jame' mosque.
Old quarters of the city, visiting the prison of Alexander, and Lariha Traditional House. Built in 1286, Lariha House was built as a house for a fabric merchant.
 The 18th century Dowlat Abad garden and its lofty wind tower is another wonder  of Yazd.
Wind towers, have provided natural air conditioning in this hot climate for thousands of years. The tower in this garden stands almost 110 feet tall. 
weaving fabrics  

wind tower in the gardens..
blending in with the locals..
celebrating 100th birthday...
a lot of experts carving the turkey on Thanksgiving...
waiting to eat again
another day on the bus...










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