THE TRANS - MONGOLIAN ROUTE - ULAANBAATAR

The Mongolian flag signifies China to the West, Russia to the East, Ying and Yang , Fire, Earth, and Peace....

The Trans-Mongolian route is the most diverse leg of the cross-continental journey, cutting across three distinct cultures, landscapes and languages.

It includes some of the most awe-inspiring sights of the long journey. 

The Republic of Mongolia, the country , sometimes called Outer Mongolia, has a total area of 605,000 square miles, and a total population of 2.75 million. Approximately 45% of the total population ,(1.2 million) live in the capital and the largest city of Mongolia - Ulaan Baatar. The population density is the lowest of any country in the world. Mongolia has always stirred up visions of the exotic, epitomised by Gengis Kahn, who was the ruler in 1206 and died in 1227. The fortunes peaked in 1280 with a territory  stretching from Moscow,Kiev,Bagdad and the Persian Gulf right across to the Pacific from what is now Nikolayevsk in the north to below Guangzhou in the south. They conquered territories as far into Europe as Austria. Eventually Mongol unity gave way to internal quarrels. Tibetan Buddhism gained ascendancy in the 16th century. The only leader of the Buddhist theocracy outside of Tibet, was the son of a Mongol khan of Urga, named a Living Buddha. During this time until the 20th century, the Quing (Manchu) dynasty of China ruled. Chinese control of Mongolia lasted from 1644 until 1911 when the Quing dynasty collapased. Mongolia declared independence. Because the Eight Living Buddha was the only unifying political and religious figure in the country, a theocratic monarchy was established. It ended in 1919 when the Chinese invaded. When the last living Buddha died in 1924 - also the "King of Mongolia", the Mongolian People's  Republic Communist Party declared a Communist People's Republic, thousands died resisting the change and a one party state and a centrally planned economy was established.  

Arriving in Ulalan Baatar is an interesting experience. Rolling green hills covered in pine trees harbour the occasional ger. The train bends into the Tuul River valley, the stunning urban sprawl of the Mongolian capital unfolds before your eyes. 

Ulaan Battar (or UB) is a Bizarre cocktail of ancient temples,crumbling Soviet-era apartment blocks, newer glass towers and derelict suburbs of gers and brick houses.

Where roads exist , tiny Hyundais and giant Hummers jostle for position, scattering the crowds of jaywalkers. 

CHINGGIS KHAAN SQUARE 

In 1921 the hero of the revolution, Damdin Sukhbaatar  declared Mongolia's final independence from the Chinese. 

The square is now called Chinggis Khann Square 

Chinggis Khann

Two amed Mongol soldiers (Boruchu and Mukhlai) guard the entrance to the monument. The government house, or Parliament House is behind the statue. There are 74 members of Parliament, and 24 parties.

State Opera & Ballet Theatre

GANDAN KHIID BUDDHIST MONASTERY

Only a handful of the original monastery survived the religious purges of 1937. It wasnt' until 1990 that the people of Mongolia started to practice Buddhism openly. The full name Gandantegchenling (the great place of complete joy). Gandan remained a "show monastery" when foreign dignitaries visited until it was re opened in 1990. Today more than 600 monks belong to the monastery.

Ochidara Temple - where the most significant ceremonies are held. 

The two story Didan-Lavran Temple in the courtyard was home to the 13th Dalai Lama during his stay here in 1904 when he fled Lhasa. 

Migjid Janraisig Sum - the monastery's main attraction. Lining the walls of the temple are hundreds of images of Ayush, the Buddha of Longevity which stare through the gloom to the magnificent Migjid Janraisig statue. 

The original statue was commissioned by the 8th Bogd Khan in 1911, in hopes it might restore his eyesight - syphillis had blinded him; however, it was carted away by Russia in 1937 to make bullets. 

The new statue was dedicated in 1996 and built with donations from Japan and Nepal. It is 60 feet high and made of copper with gilt gold covering. 

WINTER PALACE OF THE BOGD KHAN

Built between 1893 - 1903, this palace is where Mongolia's eight living Buddha, and last king, Jebtzun Damba Hutagt VIII (Bogd Khan) lived for 20 years. For reasons that are unclear, the palace was spared destruction by the Russians and turned into a museum. There are 6 temples on the grounds.

NATIONAL MUSEUM OF MONGOLIA

Stone Age sites in Mongolia, as well as petroglyphs, deer stones (stone sculptures of reindeer and other animals).

Costumes, hats and jewellery, representing most of Mongolia's ethnic groups. 

Also is a display of Mongolia's recent history and the 1990 democratic revolution. 

CENTRAL MUSEUM OF MONGOLIAN DINOSAURS

Mongolia has plenty of fossils and dinosaur eggs and skeletons to show off - second only to the United States in terms of the number of fossils located. 

The Tyrannosaurs Bataar, a cousin of the T-Rex was sold in 2012 for over $1million at an auction in Texas. The Mongolian government protested and the legal battle that ensued ruled in favor of Mongolia. 

Eating Mongolian Barbeque

MUSIC

Traditional Mongolian music, is usually played on a "morin khuur" (horsehead fiddle), a two stringed   vertical violin and a lute. 

There are several unique traditional singing styles. The enigmatic "khoomei" - throat singing- has the remarkable effect of producing two notes simultaneously - one low growl and the other an ethereal whistling. Translated as lolng songs, "urtyp'duu" use long trills to relate tradtional stories about love and the countryside. 

Back in Russia......stopping to check passports......