Monday, November 5, 2012

VISITING THE WESTERN SHORES OF NORMANDY

GRANVILLE

Granville is located in the Northwest section of Normandy, and is called the busiest sea lanes in the world. There are not any passenger ships that depart from here. The French and British security operate permanently in this very dangerous and narrow area of the channel. Many rocks not visible above sea level are in the channel. The tide rises and falls 48 feet in this area. In the 12th century the town was fortified by the English until 1437. Notre Dame du Cap Lihou 1441 - 1796 was built during the 100 years war in one of the last Romanesque styles. This town was also the childhood home of Christian Dior. There is a museum here honoring his life.

Low tide
Buying local catch
Really low tide

 

CHERBOURG - OCTEVILLE

Cherbourg is further north on the Western coast of Normandy. These two towns were joined in 2000; their combined population is 42,318. It is now the second largest city in Basse-Normandie after Caen.

An interesting fact about Cherbourg, it was involved in the US Civil War. In 1864 The CSS Alabama was being repaired in Cherbourg ship yards. The USS Kearsarge had been following the Alabama. It waited until the repairs had been completed, and then attacked the Alabama as it was leaving the harbour. It was hit, and sank in Cherboug harbour. In 1984 the French discovered the wreck of the Alabama under 200 feet of water. In June 30,1944 the Allies captured the City from the Germans.

La City De La Mer - The City on the Sea

We visited a new exhibit that was located on the harbour of Cherbourg. The Titanic, on its maiden voyage, weeks before it sunk picked up 281 passengers in Cherbourg (April 10,1912).

 

We toured the Redoutable, the largest nuclear submarine open to the public in the world.

The Abysssal Aquarium, the deepest in Europe. We were in a "virtual submarine" that simulated diving beneath the sea. There was an entire building of virtual exploration through the Titanic. We walked alongside Titanic's hull, through the corridors, and listened to the passengers. It was an excellent exhibit.

 

AVRANCHES

The fortress from 950
Views from on top of the fortress

City of the Manuscripts of Mont-Saint-Michel. The town is on a rock at the confluence of the rivers See and Selune, it overlookds the bay of Mont Saint Michel. For more than a thousand years, bishops were the most important figures of the town. In 708, on Mont Tombe, Saint Aubert, founded a sanctuary which was to become the most famous place of pilgrimage of the West - Mont Saint Michel. (Read my blog, Visiting Towns in Normandy- October 14th). The passage of General Patton's troops and the breakthrough of Avranches, prelude to the Liberation of France, made the town famous.

The gardens by the Fortress

Church of Notre-Dame-Des-Champs. A large neo-gothic building of imposing stature dominated the town. Sculptors with a wild imaination embellished the church with fantastic gargoyles.

The Church of Saint-Gervais. Neo-classical style, and its remarkable granite bell tower of neo-renaissance style. Within a gold and silver reliquary, a human skull is preserved, which tradition attributes to Saint Aubert. He was the founder of the first oratory dedicated to Saint-Michael on Mont Tombe. The skull has a hole in it. Legend has it that when St Michel the archangel appeared to St Aubert, he ignored his request to build the Abbey on top of the rock. St Michel appeared 3 times and on the third time he poked his finger through the scull of St Aubert.

The skull of St Aubert

The Scriptorial Museum. This is the the museum that houses the manuscript, ancient texts, shimmering illuminations which were made at Mont St Michel. It is incredible to see 115 manuscripts from 708 that are perfectly preserved, and rotated 20 at a time for the public to view.

This is an example of an illumination with an "F". I can't imagine how long it took to paint the detail in the letter.

 

 

 

There was a local market in the town where we were staying on Tuesday. Wonderful array of everything available - from fruits, to fancy hats.



My friend haggling with a vendor for a Euro!!
Buying fresh fish

 

My next door neighbors in Normandy

 

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