Black Forest Alps Rally

 

April 16-20 2012

Baden Baden Germany

Mercedes gave their customers an option of 7 five star hotels in the Black Forest/Alps area of Germany and Austria. We chose our first stop to be Baden Baden which was only a 90 minute drive from Sindelfingen where we picked up our car. We checked into the famous Brenners Park Hotel. The hotel is situated in a large private park facing the Lichtentaler River. We had a charming room, luxuriously appointed with a private terrace that overlooked the garden. The forsythia and the violet crepe myrtles were in bloom. The grass was perfectly manicured creating a dark green backdrop for the burst of spring colors. For may decades, Brenners Park and Spa have been synonymous. The spa never disappoints. The indoor pool with its perfect temperature, surrounded by a glass wall of windows overlooking the Spring day was a perfect treat for a before dinner swim. The true charm about Brenners Park is its unchanging dedication to excellence. I always fear when I return to this oasis that its patina may be altered. However, once again, I felt surrounded in Old World Charm, and attention to even the slightest detail. There was a Russian film festival in Baden Baden, and 90% of the clientele were Russian. Apparently in the last 5 years there are many Saudi's that occupy the hotel, staying for 3 months at a time. When the women wish to use the pool, fully clothed the entire spa and pool area is vacated of any male presence for the duration. Ahhh.....the sound of money!! Baden Baden itself is a beautiful pedestrian only, cobblestone town adorned with every boutique luxury shop imaginable. The retired Germans live here, strolling in their beautifully bespoke suits, and fine cashmere coats. I am so happy that this dignified landscape has not been altered.

Salzburg,Austria

After a 4 hour drive on the Autobahn, we arrived in Salzburg. The birthplace of Mozart. We stayed at a beautiful property, the Schloss Monchstein. The hotel is castle shaped and adorns a hilltop high on the Right Bank overlooking the Salzach River and Old Town. The room had been refurbished, and was very well appointed and comfortable. Salzburg has not changed and still has many foreign visitors. Katherine and I chose to see Hellbrunn. It was built in 1613 by the Prince-Archbishop of Salzburg, as a summer day playground. The Prince was a practical joker, and the the water games adorn the grounds. For 400 years trick springs spray unknowing visitors. My favorite attraction was a 200 piece opera of Don Giovanni that was in minature totally operating by water pumps. In the evening we attended a string quartet concert - 3 violins, a cello, and for a Haydn piece, a pianist. It was held in Hohensalzburg Fortress. This is the largest fortress in Europe built in 1077 and wasn't completed until 1681. It was held in St. George's Chapel (1501) adorned with marble reliefs of the apostles, and perfect acoustics. It was necessary to take the funicular to and from the fortress from the center of Salzburg. We also dined at the oldest restaurant in the world - circa 803, St Peter's in old town - if the walls could talk!!

Lindau, Germany

Another 4 hour drive on the Autobahn and we arrivied in Lindau. Our accomodation was the Villino Lindau. Small exquisite hotel with Mediterranean charm. It is constructed like a Mediterranean Villa, with an open courtyard and beautiful gardens in the back. A Michelin star chef overseas the kitchen. Dinner at the Villino was a special treat. Lindau is an island on Lake Constance which borders Switzerland and Austria. The snow capped Alps ring the beautiful lake, and pristine village of Lindau. We saw a Chagall exhibit (which there would have been lines around the Met) that was well presented. Chagall was an early "Modernist". His heritage was Russian Jew, and lived in Belarus. In his later years he moved to Vence in Southern France to escape persecution. He lived until 1985 - Picasso was a big fan - he said of Chagall, "when Matisse dies, Chagall is the only artist living who understands colour". He created a stained glass window for the UN in 1964 called "Peace"to honor Dag Hammarskjold. In this area is where the Zeppelin was constructed. We visited the Zeppelin museum - the only airships ever build. It was truly a phenonomon in air travel. The interesting bit is that William Randolph Hurst sponsored the first round the world Zeppelin in 1928 from Lakehurst, New Jersey, Los Angeles, Tokyo and Lindau Germany. 21 days. The Hindenberg disaster in 1937 ended the airship travel. It was never resumed.

Myths and facts on driving through Europe.

I have driven through Europe since the '80's. Very frequently by myself. The Autobahn spans Germany, Austria and Switzerland; the Grande Corniche spans France; and the Autostrada spans Italy. All of these countries have unlimited speed limits. It's not just a "German Autobahn myth". There are two "rules of the road"in Europe that I adore - 1. There is NO PASSING ON THE RIGHT!!! A beautiful rule. So the very slowest traffic is in the far outside lane; the moderate to fast is in the middle; and the big monster cars with the big 5.5liter engines are in the outside lane.(For years I yearned to be in the outside lane, but my rental vehicles would never allow it!!) But now, I am strong and proud in that lane 150km is my average driving speed - 94 miles an hour, and 160km is my optimum speed(100 miles an hour).2. NO ONE HONKS - when you want to overtake a car in the fast lane, creep up on his trunk, and flash your bright lights , he will pull over to the middle lane, and you are home free! How many accidents have I seen in all of these years - I can't remember one.

The GPS System:

Our car came equippd with this system. I have never used one. My niece Katherine, has a GPS programmed in her brain. We chided the dealership and said that "okay if the car came with it, but we wouldn't need it".We are both map people. In my trunk now I have 30-40 detail maps ordered from Michelin (part of one of our 6 suitcases). We have nicknamed our GPS "Captian Obvious" to denote our total disdain for the system. However, (please forgive me Katherine), we have really enjoyed this gadget. When we have driven into these cities, we can drive right up to the front door of our hotel. Welcome to the 21st or is it 20th century.