Krakow's Most Favorite Son, Pope John Paul II

Krakow will be forever linked with John Paul. The pope, Karol Woytyla, was born not far from Krakow in the town of Wadowice, and rose up through the church hierarchy here, serving for many years at the archbishop of the Krakow diocese before being elevated to pope in 1978. Krakow and Pope John Paul II provided the spiritual heart of the movement during Communist time. The pope's landmark trip to Poland in 1979 (and the only Polish Pope), shortly after he was elected pontiff, ignited a long-dormant Polish spirit and united the country in opposition to the Soviet-imposed government.

 

Pope John Paul is now beatified by the Catholic church - the step prior to sainthood canonization. However if the Polish people could be proxy, he would all ready be St. John Paul. There is a plak or statue in every corner of Poland where John Paul visited or celebrated Mass. The Archdiocesan Museum in Krakow where Cardinal Karol Wojtyla lived and studied while he was attending the University has commemorated the many different aspects of his life. He lived and studied here from 1951 - 1978.It is adorned with many of his personal belongings.A fine collection of gifts presented to him by heads of state from around the world.He would stand in the courtyard when he was Cardinal, and lead discussions with young adults until the early hours of the morning. Many of the citizens of Krakow have shared their personal experiences with the Pope.

 

Krakow is a Catholic's dream. There is a magnificent Catholic church or Basilica in every block of the city.

There are two streets that lead from the main square both called the Royal Route, because this was the way to Wawel Castle - Grodzke Street, and Florianska Street.

St Mary's in the square. The taller spire is where the bugler plays each hour at the top window.

St Mary's Basilica - This is the jewel in Krakow's crown and one of the great works of the Gothic era. St Mary's commands a dominant corner in Rynek Glowny. It is fronted by two towers, the taller one bearing a spire and attracts everyone's attention on the hour when a trumpeter plays a bugle call four times - a tradition dating back to the Tatar invasion of 1240.The song is a plaintive wail of the bugle call that drifts down into the modern square. The wail is cut short in his final note. Legend has it that in 1240, the sentry in the watch-tower saw a band of Tatars approaching and began sounding the alarm. One of the invaders sliced the bugler in his throat and cut the alarm short.

The altar piece is a carved wooden piece depicting the Assumption of the Virgin. The piece was carved in 1477-1489 by Veit Stross, and was taken out in World War II. It was later found and refurbished to its original state. The realistic features on the Apostles are unusual, and are supposed to represent real life characters. The ceiling is stunning painted blue with gold stars twinkling.

St Adalbert's Church.

The smallest church in Krakow topped with a grandiose dome. It is in Rynek Glowney as well, and the inside hosts magnificent concerts every evening.

 

St Peter & Paul Church

The first Jesuit and baroque church in Krakow. Italian architects were brought over to build it in the early 1600s and, like all Jesuit churches, it is modeled on Il Gesu in Rome. The 12 apostles guard the main entrance.

Dominican Church

Of all of the churches in Krakow, the Dominican attracts the most faithful congregation. It is a late 19th century rebuild of the 13th century Gothic original. Many of the ornate chapels survived, most notably the Myszkowski.

TYNIEC ABBEY

Walking the halls in the Abbey.

Tyniec is on the Vistula river, 12 km from Krakow. In 1044 it was founded by the Benedictine Order. It is a working abbey now with 75 Benedictines in residence. There is a famous author of children's and spiritual books who lives within the monastary, Leon Knabit OSB - I purchased his book called Oradosci and it means Joyful.

Friar Leon Knabit autographing his book.

Bored during the tour of the Abbey.

 

The Peace Churches of Poland

The Church of Peace in Jawor

There are two Peace churches in Poland. Each of these has been nominated a UNESCO Heritage Site. They are both located 2 hours Northwest of Krakow. These churches were constructed in Swidnica and Jawor . The Peace refers to the Peace of Westphalia of 1648 that ended the Europe-wide Thirty Years War. This part of Europe fell under the staunchly Catholic Habsburg Empire, ruled from Vienna. Local Lutherans sought protection from the King of Sweden to build places of worship. The Habsburg's relented but stipulated that the churches could be built only under very difficult circumstances: They had to be constructed completely from wood without the use of iron nails, located outside the town walls, and completed within a calendar year. That these churches were finished at all was a miracle. The Swidnica church, which can hold up to 7,000 is the largest wooden church in Europe. The engineering skills that went into their construction is a testament to their lasting beauty. Katherine and I loved these churches, and it was well worth the journey.

 

The Church of Peach in Swidnica

 

 

Two Americans Living in Krakow, Poland June 30-July 29

I want to thank all of my followers for the many inquiries as to where the "two girls" have been. We have been enjoying our wonderful adventure living in Krakow for the month of July.

Our apartment building in Krakow.

I can't express what a fabulous place Krakow is to live. A charming, cultured, intimate Krakow is full of quirks and surprises. Who would have thought that a city with a stern historic center would have such a diverse nightlife? That a horse and buggy could take you around to all of the sights? Or that a retro shopping center The Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), which dates from the 14th century, housing the original merchants, would have a wonderful view of the largest Medieval Square in Europe on it's rooftop cafe?Please don't change Krakow!!!! Even though there are several 5 star hotels and restaurants, we love you the way you are.

On top of the Cloth Hall

Diverse food choices

please refer to Katherine's blog for the wonderful food texangirleatingdrinkingeurope.blogspot.com in Poland

Krakow has a total population of 705,000. However that includes all of the outlying districts. The area that we explored has a population of 72,000. It was just a perfect size. We had an apartment that was within a 15 minute walk to the central square - Rynek Glowny. The average daily temperature was 82 degrees, with very little rain fall. As Texans, of course, we would not stay anywhere in July without air-conditioning. So, our 3 bedroom apartment was indeed air-conditioned, Texan style (65 degree indoor temp). We negotiated with the hospital next door, and for a small fee our car was parked in the lot with the ambulances and a 24 hour guard. Otherwise, most cars share the sidewalk with pedestrians.

The Florian Gate

Our hospital parking with guard.

 

HISTORY

The city's roots date back to the first millennium as a thriving market town. Of course it had the usual ups and downs related to religious strife,wars,natural disasters,plagues, and the occasional raid from Mongol hordes coming from the East. In the 13th century the city was razed to the ground by Tatars sweeping in from Central Asia, but is was quickly rebuilt. King Kazimierz the Great commissioned many of the city's finest buildings in the mid-14th century and established Jagiellonian University, the second university to be founded in central Europe - the first in Prague. Until 1596 Krakow was the seat of the Polish kingdom when Warsaw replaced it because of a political union with Lithuania which made it so large and difficult to travel from the north.

Wawel, as seen from the Vistula River

Photos of Wawel Castle

Poland was divided at the end of the 18th century and Krakow fell under the Austria-Hungary domination and was ruled from Vienna. The Habsburgs were far more liberal in their views than either the Prussians of Russia which ruled over other parts of Poland. The cultural Renaissance lasted well into the 20th century. Krakow was the bas of the late 19th-20th century Mloda Polska (Young Poland) movement e4ncompassing a revival of literature,art, and architecture that thrives today.

King Kazimierz first opened Poland to Jewish settlement. The Jewish quarter in Krakow named after him - Kazimierz, became a leading Jewish settlement in central Europe, as well as Catholic presence.

Krakow's architecture luckily escaped major destruction at the end of the war, but fared poorly in the postwar decades under Poland's Communist leadership. Krakow's charms are multidimensional. In addition to the beautifully restored Old Town, complete with its fairytale castle, there is the former Jewish quarter that has retained some of it's history in Kazimierz.

Cruising down the Vistula River